|  |  Bringing 
        Your New Puppy Home   by Marty Smith, DVM and Race Foster, 
        DVMDrs. Foster & Smith, Inc.
 Checking 
        your listWhen parents find out they are going to have a child they make all sorts 
        of preparations. A room is set aside and possibly the walls are covered 
        with an appropriate wall paper or paint, a supply of formula fills the 
        pantry, baby bottles and diapers are purchased in huge quantities, toys 
        and pacifiers are picked out, the baby's doctor is selected,etc. You need 
        to make the same preparations for the puppy, and think about the equipment 
        you'll need, the car ride home, and the puppy's activities, feeding, and 
        health care check-up.
 
 
 EquipmentYour puppy is going to need a room or at least a place it can call its 
        own and a cage or crate will fill this bill. You are better off getting 
        one that's big enough for him to use as an adult. The pup will need food 
        and water bowls, toys to chew on and play with, a collar and leash, a 
        bag of a good quality dry puppy food, and plenty of newspapers or training 
        pads. The bills are adding up!
 
 
 The 
        car ride homeThe big day arrives and it's off to pick up the puppy. Many people worry 
        that this is a traumatic event for the puppy but it probably isn't as 
        bad as you might think. Coming home will start out with a car ride from 
        the shelter or breeder's home. Try to keep this from being a terrifying 
        experience for the pup. The main problem dog's have with car rides usually 
        isn't what we humans refer to as motion sickness but simple anxiety about 
        the vibrations, sounds and to a lesser degree the movement. Many dogs 
        that have developed problems with car rides get nervous or even nauseous 
        before the engine is even started. It's important that this first trip 
        not be a bad experience that regresses into a repetitious behavioral pattern.
 
 Before you leave the kennel try to get it to go to the bathroom so there 
        are no floods or surprises stimulated by all the excitement or the ride. 
        On this first trip home we break a cardinal rule about traveling with 
        pets. We do not put them in a crate for traveling. Remember they are small 
        and easy to hold. Rather, we have someone other than the driver hold the 
        puppy in a blanket or towel and talk or in some way try to distract it 
        from the ride. If you've got a long way to go and need to stop for the 
        puppy to relieve itself do not use a highway rest stop! At it's age the 
        puppy has very little, if any, protection from common dog diseases and 
        these areas can easily be contaminated with the organisms causing these 
        conditions. We never recommend these facilities for pets of any age but 
        if you must use them, wait until your puppy has completed its vaccination 
        series.
 
 
 Being 
        with people the first day homeLeaving its mother and littermates will probably bring about some form 
        of separation anxiety. However, this can be greatly diminished if you 
        plan your schedules so you are with the puppy constantly for the first 
        3 to 4 days. Some authors suggest leaving the puppy alone and give it 
        time to itself to adjust to the new surroundings. We disagree. In our 
        homes, we plan for this introductory period by keeping the puppy involved 
        with plenty of attention from children and other family members through 
        every one of its waking moments. When we aren't with the puppy, she is 
        eating, sleeping or going to the bathroom. You'll be amazed how time spent 
        in this manner will speed up the housebreaking process. If the children 
        are young or are not familiar with how to handle puppies, you should spend 
        some time with them during these first few days explaining common sense 
        rules on how to play with the pup.
 
 
 Getting 
        a health checkOne of the first things you need to do is get the puppy into a veterinarian 
        for an initial puppy examination. You'll want to make sure the pup is 
        in perfect health, free of any congenital traits or other medical conditions. 
        Also find out exactly what the breeder (or humane society) has done for 
        the puppy. In all probability, the puppy has had some puppy vaccinations 
        given by the breeder or shelter. It probably has also been placed on a 
        deworming schedule and may even be on a heartworm preventative. Depending 
        on the breed, the tail may have been docked and the dewclaws removed. 
        It is common for all or some of these to have been done. This helps to 
        explain some of the cost of your puppy regardless of where it was obtained. 
        Your veterinarian will need all of this information along with an approximate 
        birth date.
 
 
 Feeding 
        the puppyWhat, when and how to feed puppies becomes a major issue on the first 
        day. Many new owners worry that without its mother's milk, their pup is 
        going to have a hard time adjusting to its new home. Hopefully where you 
        got the puppy will give instructions on what it has been eating. It is 
        a good idea to continue feeding the same type and brand of food for at 
        least a few days. Most people are soon surprised how well puppies make 
        it through this transition because they don't understand how far along 
        dogs are in their development at 7 weeks of age.
 Through our clinics and catalog business we work with hundreds of breeders 
        and animal shelters. It's common practice for most of these individuals 
        to start feeding their puppies a commercial food at 21 days of age. Some 
        of the toy breeds will start 3 to 4 days later. Even though their eyes 
        didn't open until 11 to 13 days old, just ten days later puppies are ready 
        to start on something in addition to Mom's milk. Most breeders take dry 
        puppy food, soak it in warm water for thirty minutes and then give it 
        to the litter when they are 21 days old. The first day they may only stick 
        their noses in it and try to lick some of the liquid. But after that, 
        they eat and they eat very well.
 
 After a week or so they are getting these feedings twice a day. This takes 
        a huge burden off the mother especially when she has a large litter. Puppies 
        fed on this sort of a schedule grow rapidly and with fewer problems.
 
 As soon as possible, the amount of water mixed in the food is decreased 
        and then finally eliminated. This depends on how fast the teeth are coming 
        in and is done on the judgment and experience of the breeder. We always 
        tell all new puppy owners to use a dry food formulated for puppies. Most 
        7 week old dogs can eat this as it comes from the bag without any problem.
 
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